buffet

Omakase Style, Japanese Restaurant

Some chefs are purists and only get their fish from Japan. Most New York City omakases hover around the $200 variety but usually creep up. Dining at Shion 69 Leonard St., for example, a newly opened restaurant run by Chef Shion Uino, will set you back $420. After extra rounds of vinegared sunomono side dishes, soup and nigiri, the last either torched or just anointed with shoyu, we are served dessert—a strawberry sake kasu cheesecake with raspberries. Prepared by Takahashi, the brewmaster, this humble slice brings me suitable back to the cozy feeling I skilled at Kura Kitchen. Figuring look...